Colonial landscapes Brownlow Hill [near Camden, NSW], Nov. 1 1871, by Conrad Martens. Original held by the Mitchell Library, State Library of New South Wales. Hidden around Sydney's suburban fringe is evidence of our rural colonial past. Landscape specialists, Colleen Morris and Geoffrey Britton, have recently completed a fascinating study of the colonial landscapes of the Cumberland Plain and Camden for the National Trust and the Heritage Council of NSW. Across the Cumberland Plain and Camden are located some of the earliest estates and farms in NSW. With this region experiencing rapid urban growth in the 1990s, the Heritage Council contracted the National Trust to undertake a study of the significant colonial gardens that still survived. The study was initiated by Howard Tanner, the then Chair of the Heritage Council, and funded by a grant from the NSW Heritage Office under the Heritage Assistance Program. Landscape specialists, Colleen Morris and Geoffrey Britton were engaged to undertake the research. It soon became clear to Morris and Britton that the study needed to do more than simply map pre-1860 gardens. "We need to look beyond the garden fences of our early properties to the estates themselves - the paddocks, vineyards, orchards, cemeteries and early roads which once defined the prime areas of European occupation. All these elements help to tell us about our colonial past," says Ms Morris. "The study is a way to better understand what remains of our colonial landscape heritage and to identify which places are the most vulnerable and how best to conserve them." Colonial Landscapes of the Cumberland Plain and Camden, NSW was undertaken over three years. Morris and Britton surveyed 173 places from Wollondilly to Hawkesbury Local Government areas, focussing on 30 estates in detail. Their broad approach took in not just the grand houses and gardens of the pre-1860 estates, but their surrounding curtilages. What they found was that a fascinating record of colonial rural life can still be read in the landscape. "When you look, quite a lot of our colonial heritage has survived in the landscape today," says Ms Morris. "The things that seem quite ordinary like old post and rail fences, old road crossings, milestones, hedgelines, garden remnants, roadways and access ways suddenly become meaningful. Often some of the later subdivision lines were determined by the way the actual land grant was laid out. The pattern in the landscape is there, though it's sometimes hard to see". Today a range of places survive, from relatively intact estates such as Denbigh at Bringelly, to places where only the house remains, or only the fencelines and paddocks. Today Brownlow Hill is a rare, substantially intact colonial farming estate. It has recently been nominated for the State heritage Register. Photograph by Colleen Morris. The factor which had the most influence on how the Cumberland plain was settled was the most basic: soil. Good soil meant the difference between a successful venture and bankruptcy. Although initially productive, much of the soil of the Cumberland plain was soon exhausted through overfarming. In these areas only large estates were found to be viable, especially as they were often backed by wealth gained from more successful pastures west of the Blue Mountains. Smaller farms survived in areas such as Pitt Town Bottoms, Richmond and Castlereagh. Small holdings fared better here due to the rich alluvial soils beside the river banks. Transport routes were also important. Settlement occurred firstly along rivers which linked farms to towns and markets. Early settlement spread up the river to Parramatta and then Windsor. Roads were then built, prompting clusters of settlement along the path. Another prominent feature of the landscape was the siting of houses themselves. The following observation by two mid-19th century visitors to Brownlow Hill, near present day Camden, is an interesting insight to the layout of larger properties. "The residence of Mr McLeay [sic] is perfect. It is situated on a knoll rising out of the level ground on the north bank of the stream, which has been levelled at the top; and round greater part a terrace is built, with an ornamental garden on the slopes around it, displaying flowers of the most gorgeous hues, and shrubberies of most tasteful description.... Altogether it is a delightful retreat, and quite the residence of a gentleman possessing good taste and ample means to display it." This effusive description of Alexander Macleay's 19th century estate, Brownlow Hill, takes particular note of the position of the homestead. For a gentleman farmer of colonial NSW, a good prospect such as a view of a river bend or a sweeping vista of rich farmland was very desirable. A handsome position was not just a pleasant outlook to be enjoyed by the homestead's occupants but an important sign of their importance in society. A well-sited house spoke of the owner's status and conveyed the importance of the property as a "gentleman's seat". These large houses were designed to be seen. Today the houses and the mature trees that carefully accent them are significant landmarks. With much of this area coming under pressure for subdivision and development in the coming years, there is an opportunity to plan appropriate mechanisms to retain their character. Brownlow Hill was nominated last month for listing on the State Heritage Register in recognition of its significance as one of the most prominent and intact colonial estates in Australia. Underlying the new study is the premise that we can plan development to retain landscapes and views of historical significance. The best time to think about what we want to save for future generations is now, so that we have a plan in place to achieve a balance between heritage and development. One of the interesting issues raised in the study is that of the interconnections between some of the larger properties. Often the large houses were situated to view a landmark associated with another property or a natural landmark. Some connections were vital to security and survival, allowing means of signalling and communication. Others were ornamental and visual in nature, adding to views or outlooks. Retention of these significant viewlines are important to consider in future development. Director of the Heritage Office, Rosalind Strong, says that the study provides a foundation of information on which to base future decisions. "The challenge is to plan for some development while conserving the significance of the place. Creating certainty about the heritage significance of these places and the identified policies to retain that significance will help councils and the community to manage future development so that it enhances our special places," said Ms Strong. "Enhancing our special places will also enrich the character and experience of the new places we are creating around them, be those parks, suburbs or industry." Morris and Britton emphasize that careful consideration of curtilage for the homesteads is essential. Thinking about viewlines, open space around the main building and other features of the estate will ensure that places retain their traditional character and significance. "Creative planning can find a balance between the need for suburban expansion and the legacy of our colonial cultural landscapes" says Ms Morris. Surviving elements of the colonial estate, Horsley, include the original bungalow, outbuildings, plantings, layout and entry. This view from the from the north shows part of the old Tecomaria capensis maze which is thought to have been planted in the 1830s. Photograph by Colleen Morris.